Green Gates opened on Tib Street in 2003 in a room that seated twenty-eight people and had one tandoor. The menu was written by hand each morning and the sign outside was, literally, a pair of green gates salvaged from the old fabric warehouse next door.

Two decades later the tandoor is bigger and there are two kitchens, but the cooking is unchanged in intent: regional Indian food cooked slowly, with produce bought weekly rather than monthly.